Jeff Houck

The Tampa Tribune’s food writer since 2005, Jeff Houck covers the way people live through their food. He also hosts the Table Conversations food podcast and believes that everything crunchy is good.

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• December 2011

Where Would You Go If You Only Had 24 Hours In Tampa? [We Do Bourdain’s ‘Layover’ Here]

Posted Dec 8, 2011 by Jeff Houck

Updated Dec 8, 2011 at 08:51 AM

=I caught Anthony Bourdain‘s new series “The Layover” the other night.

The concept: Tony spends 24 hours or so between connecting flights in cities around the worlds that are airline travel hubs: Singapore, Montreal, Los Angeles, San Francisco. That sort of thing.

Think of it as another way for Travel Channel to squeeze more out of their signature star between episodes of his popular “No Reservations” series.

I dug the episode he shot in his hometown of New York City, where he chowed on fried mayonnaise hot dogs at Crif Dogs on the Upper East Side and hibachi beef cheeks at Taskashi in the West Village.

“As with most of my travels, I tend to eat my way through a city,” he said on the show. “New York is no different.”

It got me thinking about where I would tell people to go in the Tampa area if they only had 24 hours to get a glimpse of what the city has to offer.

The list is harder than it seems.

First, you don’t want to bog people down with a long meal that will swallow a majority of their time. So, as much as I’d suggest a Flintstone-thick porterhouse at Bern’s, I’d probably advise them to skip it this time.

In keeping with Bourdain’s premise, I’d want to direct them to places that are accessible by taxi for a fare that costs less than a month’s rent. That rules out spots such as Ted Peters Smoked Fish in Pasadena or Campbell’s Dairyland in Brandon. I’d aim for diversity and texture and uniqueness over glamour and style. Because, let’s face it, we’re short on glitz anyway.

So here goes. Feel free to dispute

The Hub, 719 N. Franklin St., Tampa

Who doesn’t love a dive bar? As I’ve said before, this is the kind of place to go after donating plasma, after getting off probation or before getting on a cross-country bus. The cocktails are stiff, the bartenders are friendly, the lights are low, the jukebox is crammed with good tunes. What more could you want?

Kaisen Sushi, 14841 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa

Walk in, sit down, put two crisp $20 bills on the table and then say the word “omakase.” There’s no telling what you might eat. Could be vinegar sushi salad. Might be sliced squid adorned with daikon radish. It might well be the freshest sushi and sashimi you’ll eat in Tampa. Whatever it is, just eat it and enjoy letting the masters drive the bus.

Pierogi Grill, 1535 Gulf to Bay Blvd., Clearwater

Although rare in the Tampa Bay area, pierogies aren’t the most exotic of foods. Serve them in an Egyptian-themed restaurant, and you have our attention. That’s right. Eqyptian. Don’t ask. Just eat the pyzy dumplings and enjoy.

Acapulco Mexican Grocery, 1001 N MacDill Ave., Tampa

Past the aisles of Mexican foodstuffs, beyond the shelves with the knock-off piñatas, you’ll find a taco counter that serves amazing carnitas, al pastor and chicken tacos. The salsa verde is a revelation. This is like finding a delicious, hidden oasis in the back of a secret chamber.

The Fish House, 1902 W. Shell Point Road, Ruskin

Face it: Food just tastes better when you’re sitting on a picnic bench outdoors. When it is fried fish, shrimp, oysters, clams, scallops and soft-shelled crabs, well, that makes a special roadside fish shack now, doesn’t it? How much do I love this place? This is where my family goes to celebrate birthdays. No lie.

Wat Mongkolratanaram, 5306 Palm River Road, Tampa

Say two words to any Tampa foodie: “Thai Temple.” Then stand back and watch the reaction. Those who have been to this riverside Thai buffet on Sundays from about 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. will roll their eyes and mumble something about deliciousness and freshness and red pork curry and ohmygoodnessthatwasincredible.

Oceanic Supermarket, 1609 N Tampa St., Tampa

Perched on the northern edge of downtown Tampa, just above the ribbon of I-275 that cuts through town, you’ll find some amazing, fresh-roasted Peking duck. Sure, you can find dragonfruit and pork uterus and everything else that Asian cooks use to make amazing meals. But what you want is Peking duck to go. Trust me.

West Tampa Sandwich Shop, 3904 N. Armenia Ave. Tampa

When I want to show people what eating in the heart of Tampa’s Latin community tastes like, I take them here. Why? Because someone did that for me once. I like to pay it forward. More frequently than I care to admit, I jones for the insanely inexpensive garbanzo bean soup, the devil crab and the Cuban sandwich. Plus, you can’t beat the neighborhood atmosphere. Oh, and bring cash. This shop is too good for plastic.

Okay, now it’s your turn. What did I miss? What places would you take friends if they were laying over at Tampa International Airport? E-mail me at .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)