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Jeff Houck

The Tampa Tribune’s food writer since 2005, Jeff Houck covers the way people live through their food. He also hosts the Table Conversations food podcast and believes that everything crunchy is good.

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New Year’s Champagne Flavors You Can Afford [Enjoying The Last Thing You’ll Drink This Decade]

Posted Dec 31, 2009 by Jeff Houck

Updated Dec 31, 2009 at 04:51 PM

PERRIER-JOUET CHAMPAGNE


When it comes to selecting bubbly for New Year’s Eve consumption, I know almost as much about buying good champagne as I do about controlling nuclear fission, sewing a memory quilt and conducting a land war in Asia.

Which is to say that I rely on a variety of far more expert sources for my information on sparkling wines when it comes to flavor, bubble content, styles, nationalities of origin. And then I check how much money I have in my wallet and do the complex algorithm which computes the Cost-Benefit-Value-To-Number-Of-People-I-Like-Who-Will-Be-Drinking-This-Champagne Ratio.

My best gauge for Champagne value unfortunately only comes after I taste it. Which, let’s face it, is the best standard of all. Up until you have too much and are passed out and cannot write to tell anyone about what you’ve learned.

A perusal of independent online resources offers a plethora of opinions on the best bubbly for the money. (And, yes, I have officially exceeded my bubbly references allotment, for the record.)

Lucky for us this is a Golden New Year’s for buying sparkling wines and Champagnes. The still-floundering economy has wreaked havoc on sales and forced prices far lower than in previous years, meaning buyers will find finer offerings for less money than in recent memory.

Eric Asimov did a bang-up job for The New York Times tracking down the best bottles for sale between $30 and $40 and running them through a tasting panel of experts. According to the group, the best value brands this year are:

1. Joël Falmet Brut Tradition NV ($35)

Fresh, lively and elegant with flavors of flowers, minerals, citrus and anise.

2. Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV ($37)

Ripe and rich yet balanced, with lingering flavors of lemon, flowers and chalk.

3. Agrapart and Fils Brut Blanc de Blancs Les 7 Crus NV ($28)

Energetic and elegant with finesse and complex flavors of herbs and anise.

4. Henriot Brut Souverain NV ($33)

Full and rich yet dry, with creamy texture and tropical fruit flavors.

5. Christian Etienne Brut Tradition NV ($30)

Rich, round texture, yet dry and balanced with mineral, spice and an almost plummy flavor.


For the rest of the list, click here.

The one problem with Messr. Asimov’s story is the premise that people can afford to spend $30 to $40 on New Year’s adult beverages. That may be fine to assume in the rarified air of the New York Times newsroom, but down here at Tampa Tribune/TBO.com sea level, the budget calls for something under $20. If it’s nearer to $10, even better.

Closer to home, Tampa-based wine and spirits writer Taylor Eason took a look at inexpensive offerings and came up with this list of domestic and European labels for $15 and under:

FOOD YE-UNCORKED TB

Segura Viudas Aria Brut (Spain) $11.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut (Washington State) $12.

Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Blancs (Washington State) $12.

Cantine Maschio Prosecco (Italy) $12.

Henkell Trocken Sekt (Germany) $13.

Zonin Prosecco (Italy) $15.

Mumm Napa Brut Prestige (California) $15
.


At a tasting Eason did recently, the most that participants were willing to spend was $20.

“Nobody is spending money this year,” she told me today. “I’m talking even investment bankers and people who can afford it.”

Oh, and one more thing from Taylor:

The best way to chill a bottle is to place it in a bucket or sink with half ice, half water and a handful of salt for about 20 minutes. Of course, this means you didn’t plan ahead and put it in the fridge for a few hours – the easiest route to the cold stuff. Drink bubbly nippy – 43 degrees to 48 degrees Fahrenheit.


I heartily suggest you follow her outstanding blog by clicking here.

If you’d rather drink domestic, ConsumerResearch.com says:

The Sonoma-based Gloria Ferrer produces a rich, creamy Sonoma Brut NV ($15) with flavors of fruit cocktail, lime and toast, reviews say … Moreover, Ferrer is the least expensive of the highly rated California Brut sparkling wines. Although not as refined as the top-rated vintage Champagnes, Ferrer is said to be a delicious bubbly that’s suitable for drinking now.In professional reviews, inexpensive and widely available Korbel Brut NV ($13) earns praise in its price range. Experts say this California sparkling wine is nearly as good a value as Gloria Ferrer.


My advice: Go forth and drink (DISCLAIMER: In moderation, of course). Even if you buy something you’re not crazy about, you can always try something new next year.

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