Jeff Houck

The Tampa Tribune’s food writer since 2005, Jeff Houck covers the way people live through their food. He also hosts the Table Conversations food podcast and believes that everything crunchy is good.

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Mario Batali’s Fish Stew For The Masses [Sunday Dinner]

Posted Aug 21, 2011 by Jeff Houck

Updated Aug 21, 2011 at 10:00 PM

I have a shelf in my home I call my Great Wall of Cookbooks.

Not to brag, but it’s massive. It’s a perk - and an affliction - that comes with the job of food writer. I consider it a massive luxury to take a swan dive into the makeshift library and find something I have always wanted to make but haven’t found a recipe that intrigues my interest.

One of my favorite books came from my former neighbor Beth Gomez, who had a duplicate copy of Mario Batali’s 1998 book “Simple Italian Food” and gave me the extra. Beth speaks four languages. She’s an amazing cook. She makes sushi at home. I listen to Beth about food.

Hankering for a fish stew, I made the recipe for Ciuppin, a tremendously satisfying meal for four.

Batali writes in the book that the stew is originally from Liguria in Italy, although there are false rumors that it first emerged from San Francisco’s large Italian immigrant community.

The fish is served completely cooked through, almost falling apart, the little bits contributing to the eventual thickness of the broth. I used cod, halibut, grouper and snapper, but the fish varieties are only suggestions.

“The true dish is best when dictated by the market itself,” Batali writes. “My friend John Farber lives for this stew, so I invite him over every time I make it.”

So, from Mario for John, and from Beth through me, here’s a recipe for you to try. Made for a great Sunday meal. If you like it, pass it on.

CIUPPIN

Serves 4

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped into 1/4-inch pieces

1 celery stalk, sliced into 1/4-inch pieces

1 carrot, scraped and chopped into 1/4-inch-thick half-moons

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup basic tomato sauce

8 ounces grouper fillet, cut into 1-inch cubes

8 ounces snapper fillet, cut into 1-inch cubes

8 ounces halibut fillet, cut into 1-inch cubes

8 ounces cod fillet, cut into 1-inch cubes

Salt and pepper

1 cup water

1/4 cup finely chopped Italian parsley

4 slices Italian peasant bread, grilled or toasted

In a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven, heat the olive oil until smoking over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, carrot and garlic and cook until softened and light brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the wine and tomato sauce and bring to a boil.

Add the fish cubes, cover, and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 25 minutes. Check for seasoning with salt and pepper and add some of the water if too thick. Stir in the parsley.

Place a bread slice in the bottom of each of 4 bowls. Ladle the soup over the bread and serve. Garnish with grated pecorino Romano cheese, if desired.