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Tracking Wilma: On The Road With Bill Ward

Sanibel Island: Life Goes On


[11:30 a.m.] Everywhere you turn, it seems like their are vacationing British families here. I think that has to do with the school breaks kids in England get throughout the year, as well as the fact that you get nearly $1.80 on the UK pound.

This morning on the tip of Sanibel Island, right in front of the old lighthouse, I met a family from Leeds. Martin and Tracy Wolstenholme, their 7-year-old daughter, Bethany and 5-year-old son, Adam were enjoying the beach—despite a light rain falling. If you’ve ever been to a beach in England, you’d know why a little rain wasn’t a problem. Martin’s mom and dad, George and Eileen, who live in Halifax, England, are also on this holiday to Florida. Martin and Tracy have been to Florida seven times but this is the closest a hurricane has come to spoiling things. They had a week in Orlando with the usual Disney activities and their final week is here in southwest Florida. They’re scheduled to leave out of Orlando on Wednesday but they keep having to call the airline to get updates on the status of their flight.

Tonight, the whole family was suppose to go on a dolphin cruise but that got canceled due to the bad weather. But they didn’t seem too bothered because they just saw real dolphins swim by right here on Sanibel. The only question they have now is whether they will have to evacuate the hotel they’re staying at on the beach.

[12:30 p.m] Beer truck guys are like letter carriers: they deliver the goods rain, sleet or snow. At a 7-11 on Sanibel, Robert Miller of Suncoast Beverage was unloading cases of Budweiser, Bud Light and Corona. He says his load has increased over the past few days with the threat of Wilma. Yesterday, Miller said he delivered 813 cases of beer during his 10 stops in this area. Just after Miller’s truck pulled out of the 7-11, the Miller beer guy pulled in with their load. Hey, people gotta have their beer for the storm.

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Fort Myers - All Full at the Inn


[10 a.m.] Anxiety seems to be gradually building here. Along US 41 in Fort Myers, hotels are filling up fast as people board up and leave their homes in vulnerable beach communities. People in hotels and resorts on barrier islands like Sanibel and Captiva could have to evacuate inland and Lord knows where they will stay if it comes to that. I landed one of the last rooms at a hotel on 41 but it’s only until Sunday morning. I even had to sign a paper at this hotel stating I will leave when I’m suppose to leave. Apparently, guests who have checked into a hotel prior to a hurricane have refused to leave on the day they were suppose to, leaving folks with reservations standing in the lobby. With the doomsday atmosphere of a threatening hurricane, that has led to some ugly scenes and law enforcement having to step into the fray. I’m supposed to remain in the area through Wednesday and since I signed that paper agreeing to leave (as well as not eat any guests in case of food shortages), I’ll head south to Bonita Springs for the remainder of this assignment. There, I booked the very last room at a Hampton Inn.

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The Ghost Town called Boca Grande


[6 p.m.] Tampa owns a certain kindred spirit with Boca Grande because it was once home to fabled pirate Jose Gaspar, or so the legend goes. In fact, the island Boca Grande sits on is called Gasparilla Island.

Just before I paid the pirate-like $4 toll to reach Jose’s namesake, I noticed Dave Miller of nearby Placida working frantically to put up plywood over the windows of his home. He spent the last day doing this chore in stifling humidity but the job was done and now he and his wife Luci were making contingency plans to leave and head for higher ground. They said they will likely travel to Orlando, where some of their family lives.

My first stop in Boca Grande was the lighthouse at the southern tip of the island. There’s actually two lighthouse here, the 105-foot tall steel-girder structure on the public beach built in 1927, and this older, wooden one, which serves as a channel marker for Boca Grande pass. It was built in 1890 and is said to be the oldest structure on the island. The lighthouse offers an awesome view of the pass and today, there were a dozen or so locals hanging out on the beach, a camera crew from a local CBS station and about 10 gazillion of those famous noseeum bugs. I had forgotten about these horrid things until now, when it seemed they were consuming me alive. Still, they were worth it to get this view.

[7:30 p.m.] Just after sunset, I headed into downtown Boca Grande. I kept looking for the locals but it was practically deserted—a far cry from the busy scene last night in downtown Venice. I walked into one restaurant and three college-age kids who worked there said the place was closed. They were deep into what seemed to be a heavy discussion, as well as deep into Heinekens and cigarettes. So I asked what else was open downtown, got a Wilma update from them and beat it for a nearby Italian restaurant. That restaurant was open, but they were likely going to shut down Friday. I walked down a few more streets and looked for Fugate’s, which, just like the guide books tell you, really does look like one of those old 5-and-Dime stores from the 1950s. It opened in 1916, is the oldest business on the island and is supposedly a popular hangout for the locals. But when I got there, it was closed.

Like so many other places I’ve seen the past few days, I’d like to come back here, minus the threat of a hurricane. But something tells me I probably couldn’t afford Boca Grande because the Bush clan vacationed here last Christmas. They played a little golf, went fishing and relaxed. I bet the Secret Service took care of all the noseeums, too. But they would be powerless right now to stop Wilma from heading this way.

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Englewood Beach - Civilization … and Hell’s Angels?


[1:30 p.m.] It’s a good thing Wilma is inching along down by the Yucatan today. I seem to be trudging along down Tamiami Trail at the same pace. My general yardstick for progress of a trip is this: if you can still pick up Tampa Bay area radio stations, you haven’t gone very far. Ok, so I can’t pick up WMNF, but who can outside of Seminole Heights? Besides, when the powerful Bay area stations are playing tunes like “A Woman Needs Love (Just Like You Do)” by Ray Parker Jr. and Raydio, I’d rather listen to the same AM weather report over and over.

The beach here at Englewood is quite a departure from Venice and Manasota. There’s a lot more development here, and that’s not necessarily a good thing. The first sign of beach de-evolution: the dreaded PAY STATION when you park on the beach. It’s the same machines they have on Pass-A-Grille, where you feed a machine a few bucks for a tiny piece of paper to place on your dashboard. Other signs of the fall of beach civilization include cheesy tourist trap gift shops offering three T-shirts for 10 dollars, condos and half-milion dollar yachts docked everywhere.

The good thing about Englewood Beach is its seedy side. It reminds me a lot of Treasure Island—the place in Pinellas County, not the childrens book by Robert Louis Stevenson. There are quite a few dive bar/restaurants here and today, I saw Harley Davidsons parked outside most of them. As I left the beach, however, I saw who was riding those Harleys—retirees! Hey, maybe they’re Hell’s Angels retirees, the ones the Stones used for security in 1969 at Altamont. The Stones were in Tampa at the Forum last night, right?

Well, on to Boca Grande, occasional hangout for the well heeled. With the storm looming, all I can think of here is “all this could be under three feet of water soon.”

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Manasota Beach Near Englewood


[10:30 a.m.] Shhhhhh…..Don’t tell anyone about my first stop today. It’s yet another beach where developers have yet to rip up the sea oats and smash some of those bothersome turtle eggs to put up high-rise condos. What gives down here?

The more I travel along the Tamiami Trail on Florida’s West Coast, the more I want to come back for a vacation. It’s like getting into a time machine and coming back to Florida of the 1960s. If it weren’t for the threat of a rather large hurricane, this would be the perfect time to visit southwest Florida. It’s hot, but not August hot, and it’s not crowded because most kids are back at school.

I have no idea how they found this spot – even me, a lifetime resident of Florida, had never heard of this beach – but there was a German family vacationing at this beach today. Their two preschool sons were loving it. The Gulf was flat as a pancake, clear and red tide-free. And the sand here is like the kind you pay $4 a bag for at Home Depot.

Some locals from Englewood said they were here for the first time in months because like many Tampa Bay area beaches, the red tide was so bad it made you cough every other breath you took. Today, it’s absolutely perfect for the beach, with the water a comfy 81 degrees, no stingrays in sight and not even a ripple – yet – from Fred Flintstone’s wife.

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Historic Downtown Venice


[7:30 p.m.] The prevailing thought in these small towns along the Tamiami Trail in West Florida seems to be “I’m going to wait to see if it turns our direction before I do anything.” I suppose that’s a wise enough decision, especially since I’m someone driving in the general direction of a Cat 5 hurricane. But what if it’s the old Woody Allen line from Love and Death, you know, where Woody asks Diane Keaton “what if everyone shows up to the same restaurant on the same night and orders the same thing off the menu,’’—i.e., total chaos. Same thing could happen with Wilma as people rush off the coast.

As a light rain fell just after sunset, folks here in this tiny artsy/restored district of downtown Venice seem to be going about their business in the usual manner, going to dinner at intimate restaurants and wine bars, heading to the Venice Little Theater for a show and going to beauty spas. Meanwhile, Mother Nature looms large as the Weather Channel’s ratings go through the roof.

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Venice Beach


[6:30 p.m.] When I was in high school in the mid-1970s, I used to drive my 1972 Triumph GT-6 down to Venice Beach to get away from the crowds on St. Pete Beach.  The sea oats and coarse sand here seemed so pristine and natural compared to the urban feel of, say, Pass-A-Grille. I still remember this photo of me on this blazing-white sand road down here, standing alongside my Triumph. And as I drove up tonight near sunset in this monster truck that could probably hold three Triumphs in its cockpit, the road was still there, just as it was. The beach seemed the same, too—although there’s probably a few more condos than the last time I was here.

The sky at sunset here was amazing. It had this look that it was about to pour down in buckets—you know that spooky look the sky gets right before a bad storm, where the clouds hang low. But at the moment of sunset, an orange sun peeked through the clouds just above the water—and then sank quickly out of sight. That might be the last time I see the sun for the next several days.

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Sarasota, U.S. 41


It’s sunny here and breezy. Quite gorgeous, really. I’m packing up and heading down the Tamiami Trail toward, well, I’m not sure what to expect. I always head that way via bland-but-fast I-75. I’m fairly certain about what I’ll find: there’ll be some small beach towns—and more rain.

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This is the Life


With the sun peaking in and out of the clouds, I headed down to Lido Beach to see if anyone was actually having fun down there. Sure enough, there were beachgoers. No, it wasn’t Sunday afternoon type crowds. In fact, there might have been a mere 50 people in a stretch of about a half mile of this beach. But there were families and groups of friends out here, rain or shine.

I convinced Sarasota’s Bill Richards and Cheri Grabau to talk to me on video about their plans for Wilma. They were with friends who were enjoying some fine beverages on the beach, swimming and generally having fun. I didn’t ask them what type of work allowed them to be on the beach in the middle of the afternoon on a weekday. They were in their 30s and 40s—far too young to be retired. Maybe they were independently wealthy. They had one friend visiting from Germany and another, Lana Mills, is a native of Latvia now living in the area. While Bill and Cheri talked to me on camera along the water’s edge about Wilma, one of their friends up on the beach decided to drop his swim trunks and moon them.

After regaining his composure from that unexpected incident, Bill said he will head to his brother’s house in Orlando if Wilma threatens Sarasota. Cheri is waiting to see what the storm does in the next day or so before making up her mind. Their friends on the beach? They were having way too much fun for me to bring them down with a question about hurricane preparedness.

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We’re Not in Nebraska Anymore


The Schuetze family is from Omaha, Nebraska and is vacationing in Sarasota.

The Schuetze family is here in Sarasota and it’s Day 4 of their Florida vacation. When I first approached them and asked if I could interview them, father Lynn asked me if I was selling something. When I assured him I was a reporter from the Tampa Tribune (and I was carrying 50 pounds of camera gear, too), he still asked, “Are you sure you’re not selling something?” Maybe they have aggressive subscription folks where they live.

The Schuetzes are from Omaha, Nebraska, a place a lot of us along the Gulf Coast are probably considering moving to following all these monster hurricanes. They’re staying with family in the area and are scheduled to head home Sunday out of Sarasota International Airport, which is just about the time all heck might be breaking loose on this side of Florida as a result of Wilma.

Speaking of Wilma, let me digress a minute. Why Wilma? If you’re going to name a ferocious hurricane after a Flinstones character, wouldn’t Bam-Bam have been a better choice?

Anyway, Lynn and his wife, Jill Kohles, are split on what to do if Wilma comes our way. Lynn says he would like to find a safe place locally and ride it out. It is, after all, the kind of weather excitement you never get in Omaha. Jill, whose father lives in Sarasota, seems to prefer the Get the Heck Out of Dodge in a Dodge, Chevy or Toyota plan. They do, after all, have two children—13-year-old Dylan and 11-year-old Kylie. But this is their vacation. Even when it was raining off and on today, they had their beach stuff packed in the car ready for action. They’ve had a few days of non-stop sunshine, however, and don’t seem too bummed by the prospect of non-stop rain - or Old Testament-type flooding - the rest of the week.

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First Stop: Sarasota’s St. Armands Circle


It’s 1:30 p.m. Wednesday in Sarasota’s posh, up-scale St. Armands Circle. 

Sarasota’s posh, up-scale St. Armands Circle.

There’s overcast skies and every few mintes or so, a band of showers briefly passes through. At this time of day, you would expect a late lunch crowd but the trendy sidewalk cafes here are close to full. Why? Because this is St. Armands Circle, a fairly pricey tourist destination and hangout for the well-to-do. Here, it’s more like Disney than downtown Tampa. And like the crowd at Disney, every other voice you hear in St. Armands Circle seems to be in a different language.

Tampa’s David Walston, 34, and Eric Lentz, 32, just found out how expensive lunch can be here. At one of the more modest eateries, they shelled out a combined $26 for a couple slices of pizza, a salad and two ice teas. Me, I’m surviving on tea and Power Bars from the 7-11.

Tampa’s David Walston, 34, and Eric Lentz, 32, at Sarasota’s posh, up-scale St. Armands Circle.

Lentz works for chemical/aspirin giant Bayer and Walston is a sales rep for Univar, one of the distribution companies that stores some of Bayer’s products in warehouses around the nation. The two friends drove down to Sarasota Wednesday for a customer meeting and decided to lunch in St. Armands. When they left home early Wednesday morning, they knew Wilma was already a Category 5 hurricane but they figure they have time to make a decision about what to do if the storm heads for the Tampa Bay area. Walston is single and is waiting to see when the storm turns east before deciding where to go. Lentz feels the same way but his wife is expecting their first child and says they will leave Tampa and head north if Wilma continues to be a strong hurricane and heads anywhere near Florida’s West Coast. Both are headed back to Tampa later this afternoon.

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Getting Started


This morning I picked up my rental car at a place at Tampa International Airport and headed south on Interstate 75 toward Sarasota. I have a little trepidation, leaving my family – wife, a 2 year old and 6 year old - behind knowing that Tampa is still in the cone of uncertainty. I’ve never gone seeking a Catetory 5 hurricane. It’s a little unnerving, but I’m really jazzed to be going down here.

As a sports reporter for The Tampa Tribune, covering Wilma is a little bit out of my realm of expertise. I’m not going to the Olympics or a high school track meet or a Friday night prep football game. But this has the same feel as the Olympics because this is the big story.

I’m driving a 2005 Ford Excursion, something I would never be caught dead in. In Sarasota, there are no hints of any anxiety yet. Traffic is light and there are no lines at the gas pumps. My plan is to move along Florida’s southwest coast during the next couple of days and file reports on what’s happening as the area prepares for Hurricane Wilma.

Stay tuned.

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